RoadTrip2011

Well, we’ve been here five days, with three climbing days. It’s been hot. Summer desert hot. Highs around 90. Thankfully, it’s easy to find shade, and the conditions are reasonable, but walking between boulders is torture, especially across the slabs. Oh well–good thing I brought the long underwear. Hopefully, the temperatures will moderate a bit this weekend. It could be worse, or at least that’s what I’m telling myself.

As far as climbing goes, it’s been a bit frustrating. I’m fairly certain I overtrained a bit this winter, and probably peaked about a month ago (you know, when it was still cold and wet in Pittsburgh and we couldn’t climb outside), so I’m hardly at optimal strength. Our first day out was spent mostly at Martini Roof, and I could tell I hadn’t been on rock in about five months. I was able to quickly link the moves on Big Iron on His Hip (V7), but sun on the finish preventing a proper send. Day two found us on a tour of East Mountain with Paul and April and Silas, and I finally got my legs under me a bit. I worked on Full Service (V10) for a bit, and made reasonable progress. The problem is amazing, with a wild selection of holds, and excellent movement between them. I wish we could go back to it, but its height is a bit intimidating (and, of course, there’s the whole matter of it being on tour). Oh well–at least I had the opportunity to try such a classic. I finished the day flashing two four star V5s–Dragonfly and Hobbit in a Blender (this was a mulligan flash). Day three found us wandering around North Mountain again. I headed up to Power of Silence (V10), but the heat and sore muscles subverting any efforts there.

As far as the coming days, I’d like to link Big Iron, and perhaps give Choir Boys (V9) a solid effort. We’re touring the East Spur next weekend, and hopefully I can clean up classics like the Glas Roof and Better Beat Your Sweeties (V7). I will not, however, try Better Eat Your Wheaties (V9), given my experience last year.

Posted on 19 April 2011