While it only gets three stars in the guidebook, it is a classic North Mountain problem. A bit tall, a bit technical, and a bit bold, with a feet-off jump just below the lip.

Left hand starts on a small pinch, right hand on the “babyface” hold–a decent sidepull that you can get your fingers behind. Both holds are at head height, and very far apart. Right foot starts on a little point under an overlap, while the left foot finds an appropriate smear. Drop the left knee, and reach up with the left hand to a small side pull, then go again a small, positive crimp. This is the most powerful move of the problem. Everything that follows is mostly just ticky-tacky and insecure. Right foot goes up to a little spike, and the right hand grabs a slick pinch on the arete. Match feet on the spike, then right foot goes up to the babyface hold. These moves are insecure–the pinch never feels terribly good, and right foot hold requires precision. Right hand goes up again to a very small, positive crimp. Here’s where things get a little crazy. If you’re tall enough, swing the left leg a bit and lunge with the left hand for a good ear. Your feet will cut, but if you’ve gotten this far, you will stick it. If you’re short, well, commit to some greasy smear with the left foot and go for it. Finish the problem by getting a right foot on a good edge, grabbing the rather large holds at the top of the boulder, and pull over the top. Take in the views of East Mountain before you climb down.

Posted on 30 April 2011