From RoadTrip2011

After a few days of work, and nearly a week of being sick, we left Santa Cruz for the day, heading up the hill, and bouldered at Castle Rock State Park. Though hardly a destination spot, Castle Rock has its place in U.S. bouldering history, as many west coast climbers cut their teeth on the Fontainebleu-esque sandstone blocks scattered in the forest. We spent the day at the Magoos, and tight collection of blocks just below the Castle Rock itself. The rock was, mostly, very interesting to climb on, with lots of big, gritty slopers and poor footholds. Many of the moderate problems were exceptionally fun, with big slopers and interesting top-outs. I didn’t do much hard stuff, only working briefly on the Bates sit-start (V9/10). I did manage to do the Hueco Wall (very hard V5 and, unfortunately, a bit chipped), SLAP (super fun V5 arete), and Bates Left (V6). We walked past Deforestation (V7) at the end of the day (made famous in Rampage), but I was feeling knackered enough to just walk past.

Our time on California ends on Tuesday, then we’re off to Salt Lake City for a few days of bouldering in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Posted on 7 May 2011