Jacques Ellul in 60 Minutes

Do you want a (reasonably) concise summary of what Jacques Ellul thinks about technology in our modern world? Stick around ’til the end to really get a sense of how Ellul thinks we need to interact with technology to retain our human-ness.

Also note how many books this man owned, particularly in his office.

The Betrayal by Technology from Hive 2.0 on Vimeo.

Training Musings

I am nearly two months into my “training” for our trip to Hueco Tanks. I like to think that I am feeling fairly strong, but it’s been difficult to find benchmarks for my progress. But more on that later.

Primarily, I’ve been using the hangboard, generally three days a week (sometimes four). My big breakthrough there was finding the Beastmaker training guidelines. As I’ve noted before, the British often have an obsession for training (over, sometimes, actually climbing on rocks), so they are the best source for motivation and direction when using a one foot by three foot piece of plastic and wood in your cellar.

I started with sets of repeaters and encores, plus core work, and stayed with that for about a month of so, mostly to get my fingers used to the idea of working hard again. For the past few weeks, I’ve shifted over to doing pyramids (essentially offset pull-ups), throwing in repeaters and encores when I do workouts on consecutive days.

What about actual climbing? Well, motivation for that waxes and wanes. I was reasonably motivated to go to the gym during and after the holidays, since we spent quite a bit time setting new boulder problems. Motivation has waned, however, now that I’ve done most of those “projects” and I don’t feel motivated enough to do circuits. Its times like these that I miss the bouldering coop, or the old bouldering wall at the gym–large swaths of plywood completely covered with holds for an infinite selection of moves. Realistically, it would be good to start some circuits, at least once a week, and there is a good crop of steep, fingery problems to include.

So, where do I stand? That’s a good question. I have no idea if the grades I’ve given to problems I’ve set in the gym are in the right ballpark. If they are, well, I am rounding into shape and my ticklist for Hueco isn’t pie-in-the-sky, If those problems are soft (or, worse, horribly overgraded), then I am in for quite a surprise. Sadly, given the weather, I can’t be sure we’ll climb outdoors before the trip. I’d love to go to Coopers Rock and try some of the standards there, just to see where I stand.

Climbing Motivation of the Week

Yeah, it’s not bouldering, but motivating nonetheless.

IKER POU – DEMENCIA SENIL 9a+ (Margalef) from jordi canyigueral on Vimeo.

Family Climbing

Jen and I watched bits and pieces of Committed Volume II last night. Really good stuff, particularly the bit on the Whittaker family. I can only hope that in ten years we are living as they are. Katy and Pete, both teens, are filmed repeating and establishing hard, committing grit testpieces, belayed by their parents. I am in awe of the fact their mom, for instance, can watch Pete as he establishes a new route to the right of Braille Trail, let alone belay him. Of course, as Jen pointed out, mom and dad are fully taking responsibility for the safety of their kids (despite the apparent danger of the pursuit itself).

Weekly Climbing Motivation, Part Two

Hueco Tanks 2009 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Chbalanke looks very good.

Weekly Climbing Motivation

Power of Silence

(Taken from MoonClimbing.com)

I’d like to think Power of Silence will be one of my projects for the Hueco trip.

power of silence v10 from Walker Emerson on Vimeo.

Convivial Software, Revisited

Comment published a short symposium on my recent essay on convivial software. I’m deeply grateful to the Cardus staff for giving me this opportunity.

Saturday, Snowstorm

What to do when you get 18+ inches of snow.

Friday night: Shovel the 4+ inches of snow that fell already, and let the kids play outside way past their bedtime.

Saturday morning: Shovel enormous amount of snow, and be thankful that the sidewalk is only 15 feet long. Try to figure out how to shovel the walk next to house, since there is nowhere to put the snow. Give up on shoveling the path in the back since the pine bush has basically fallen over on it. Begin to dig out van, which just looks like a really big pile of snow. Break two snow shovels. Give up and eat lunch.

Saturday afternoon: Finish digging out van with a garden spade. Understand that this really sucks. Come inside and start to learn Haskell. Think really hard about what to make for dinner, since you couldn’t go shopping today.

Saturday evening: Do a hang board workout.

Lost?

I agree with Peter Suderman. We watched the season premiere of Lost last night, and I am underwhelmed. That’s not say we won’t watch the final season (thanks, ABC, for releasing the episodes online), but I can’t help but wonder if the writers and producers are headed toward a Matrix-like finish–the show started so strongly, you can’t help but wonder if they’ve already laid their cards on the table, and if things are still incomprehensible at the end of the season, they can simply say “you didn’t get it? Tsk, tsk.”

Climbing Motivation of the Week, Part One

dark age v11 from Walker Emerson on Vimeo.

This is on my official tick list for our Hueco visit.